By Valerie Melton
THE JOPLIN GLOBE (JOPLIN, Mo.)
Sun, May 18 2008
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Long ago it was hailed as a delicacy, one reserved for royalty.
Today, corned beef is regarded in native Ireland as a peasant dish, much too ordinary to be served on a national holiday. In America, however, corned beef and cabbage is one of the most popular dishes served in homes and pubs across the country on St. Patrick’s Day.
Corned beef is a cured brisket seasoned with a dry mixture of salt and herbs. The “corned” portion of the dish’s name refers to the “corns” or grains of coarse salt generally used to cure the meat. Brining, the use of salt water, has replaced the dry salt cure, but the name “corned beef” remains — possibly because it sounds better than “brined beef” or “pickled beef.”
“The brisket cut is the front quarter, lower shoulder portion of the cow,” said Mike Johnson, market meat manager. “It’s a little on the tougher side but if it’s cooked correctly it can be a nice tender piece of meat with a really nice flavor.”
Due to the lack of refrigeration in the early 20th century, Irish farmers would salt meat in a brine mixture to preserve it during the winter, according to the Web site www.kitchenprojects.com. When Easter came, the family would partake, signaling the end of the meatless Lenten fast. Some research shows that corned beef was actually a substitute for Irish bacon that immigrants were introduced to by their Jewish neighbors while living in New York City’s Lower East Side.
Preparing corned beef is relatively easy, requiring a good amount of patience and an even larger broiling pan. Most supermarkets carry seasoning packets to help consumers avoid over-seasoning the meat. However, most recipes simply call for a mixture of peppercorn, salt and bay leaves.
Although any cut of brisket will result in a tasty corned beef, “a flat cut is generally the best cut to use,” said Johnson. “It’s the most lean of any cut. It’s just all meat. A point cut is usually a little cheaper but not as lean. Flat cut is going to be your best bet.”
Recipes yielding four to six servings usually call for a 3- to 4-pound brisket. That may seem like a large cut but Johnson warns that “since the meat is cured with salt and cooked in water, it shrinks up quite a bit.”
Because the brisket is a tougher cut of beef, the longer it cooks the better.
“Patience is the key,” Johnson said.
When it comes to cooking corned beef, the rule of thumb is an hour in the oven per pound on low heat.
“When you stick a fork in it, it should almost fall apart,” he said. “When it’s almost cooked through, be sure to throw in potatoes, carrots and cabbage. Those don’t take long to cook.”
Johnson also notes the importance of remembering to slice the corned beef against the grain.
“You’ll be able to see the grain. Cutting across it holds the meat together better and releases the flavor,” he said.
Traditional corned beef and cabbage
1 corned beef brisket, 4 to 5 pounds
8 quarts water
2 tablespoons peppercorns
2-3 cloves garlic, peeled
2-3 bay leafs, whole
1 pound medium yellow onions, peeled and quartered
2 pounds carrots, peeled and cut into 2-inch chunks
3 pounds boiling potatoes, peeled
1 medium head green cabbage, cored and quartered
Start heating the water in a large pot over a high flame. Unwrap and rinse the corned beef well. Add to the pot. If necessary, add more water to cover. As soon as the water comes to a boil turn down the flame to a very slow simmer
After simmering for about 30 minutes, skim any particles or foam from the top of the liquid. Add the peppercorns, garlic and bay leaf. Continue to simmer. Total cooking time is about 3/4 to 1 hour per pound of brisket at a very slow simmer (a 4-pound brisket should cook for 3 to 4 1/2 hours; a 6-pound hunk 4 1/2 to 6 hours)
Meanwhile, prepare the vegetables. Wash, peel and cut the carrots. Wash and peel the potatoes; leave them whole if small, otherwise halve or quarter them. Wash the cabbage; discard any yellowed or darkened leaves. Quarter the cabbage, cut out the core and any other tough parts.
About 1 1/2 hours before brisket is done, add the onions. Follow with the carrots about 30 minutes later and the potatoes 15 minutes after that. The cabbage should go in about 30 minutes before the brisket is ready.
Remove the brisket when it is fork-tender and set aside to rest. If the cabbage isn’t ready, continue to simmer until tender. Remove the bay leaf from the pot and discard. To serve, slice the brisket diagonally across the grain. Arrange in the center of a serving platter.
Valerie Melton writes for The Joplin (Mo.) Globe.
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